9-seat raw bar and tinned fish restaurant Barbouni debuts in the Grand Central District
/Hold the anchovies and flaked tuna — thanks to the arrival of a new restaurant in the Grand Central District, there’s much more to canned fish than the usual options.
Barbouni has opened as part of Baba, a Greek and Lebanese eatery located at 2701 Central Avenue. It’s a raw bar that serves freshly shucked oysters, but its menu also features stone crab, crudo, and 48 different types of tinned fish — everything from mackerel, herring, salmon, trout, clams, and mussels to, of course, sardines and even barnacles. Craft cocktails, wine, and other alcoholic beverages are also available.
The restaurant gets its name, Barbouni, from a mildly sweet fish, also called “red mullet” that is a staple in Greek fish taverns. The fish is usually fried, grilled, or even served as tartare, drizzled with citrus and fresh herbs.
Barbouni takes the place of Baba’s bakery and cafe. It’s a small venue, with just a nine-seat bar, and is owned by George and Debbie Sayegh, who also own Baba, which opened in 2019; Bodega, a popular EDGE District restaurant known for Latin-inspired cuisine; and Bar Chica, a modern cocktail bar hidden away inside Bodega.
The Sayeghs designed Barbouni as an homage to the ouzeri, a type of Greek tavern. Ouzeris often pair great drinks, typically ouzo, a popular Greek anise-flavored aperitif, and a selection of small bites.
Barbouni’s selection of 48 types of tinned fish is unmatched in Tampa Bay, and possibly even Florida. If you think you aren’t a fan of canned fish because all you’ve ever had is Chicken of the Sea sardines, it’s time you gave it another shot. And Barbouni is the perfect place to start.
Start out by ordering Patagonia Provision’s Smoked Mussels, which offer a meaty, salty, and delicious taste of coastal Spain. These organic mussels were smoked over bay wood and loaded with extra virgin olive oil and mussel broth. And yes, Patagonia, the clothing company you know and love, makes tinned fish too.
Another offering at Barbouni is the Smoked Salmon with Sichuan Chili Crisp, a collaboration by Fishwife and Fly by Jing. These salmon were raised by third-generation family farmers in the Arctic Circle before being brined in salt, garlic salt, and brown sugar and hand-packed into cans with Fly By Jing’s Sichuan Chili Crisp from Chengdu, China.
Lastly, be sure to try Bokksu’s Shirasu Anchovies. These simple, buttery, and flavorful anchovies were caught in Miyazaki Port, Japan and preserved with savory cottonseed oil, basil, and black pepper.
Barbouni is open Wednesday through Sunday from 5:00 pm to 10:00 pm. All nine seats are first-come, first-serve.
Be sure to follow the restaurant on Instagram at @barbouniatbaba for all the latest offerings.